Reflecting back: Beautiful Chaos at Mavericks
Mavericks can be—raw, unforgiving, and relentless.
Looking back, December 28, 2023, was one of the most challenging days I’ve ever had at Mavericks. The ocean was alive in that way only Mavericks can be—raw, unforgiving, and relentless. It wasn’t just a day of photography; it was a day of survival.
The first attempt to get out to the lineup was a mess. I was on the jet ski with JP (@jp_mafias), who had traveled all the way from Nazaré, Portugal, to surf Mavericks, and Diego, who I just met that morning. But even with a solid crew, we were no match for the conditions. Waves kept coming, stormy and relentless, and before we knew it, the ski tipped, and we were all in the water.
Ryan Augenstein charging.
It wasn’t speed or recklessness—it was the sheer power of the ocean. For a second, I thought we were done for. But somehow, by sheer luck or determination, we managed to scramble back onto the ski without getting worked by a set. It was close—too close—but we made it. Stoked and soaked, we decided to head back to the harbor. Other skis and boats were retreating too, and it felt like the smart move to regroup.
But JP wasn’t ready to call it a day. He had come from Nazaré for this, and the guy was itching to get out there. So we came up with a new plan. Diego stayed behind at the harbor to lighten the load, and JP and I went back out.
As we made our way through the chaos, we spotted Russ (@russel_smith831) in the distance. He was taking a different line, one that clearly had a chance of getting through. JP and I decided to follow his lead, but it wasn’t easy. I lost sight of Russ a few times as waves kept crashing down, drenching us and forcing me to dodge and weave. The whole time, I was just trying to keep the ski upright and not get swallowed by the sea.
Drake taking a moment to capture the raw beauty.
Eventually, after what felt like forever, we made it out to the lineup. We were soaked, battered, and completely spent, but the ski still had gas, and—miraculously—my photo gear was dry. Sitting there, I had this overwhelming sense of gratitude. I was grateful to be alive, to have made it through the madness, and to be in a position to capture what was happening on such a gnarly day.
Kai Lenny always puts on a good show at Mavericks.
The surfers out there were incredible. Mavericks doesn’t give anyone an easy ride, and the risks they were taking were huge. It was humbling to be in the presence of that kind of courage, and it reminded me why I love being out there, documenting these moments.
I prayed a lot while driving the ski that day—maybe more than I usually do. But it all worked out, and now I have these photos to share. They’re a glimpse into one of the wildest days I’ve ever had, a day I’ll never forget.
Enjoy the shots!
